Monday, June 15, 2009

China 2009 Day 1 - Sichuan, Chengdu - Luo Dai Ancient Town (洛带古镇)


This is the first post in a series of posts on a trip to China in 2009. Return to the trip index here.

29 May 2009

Arrived at Chengdu international airport in the morning via an Air China flight. Had some domestic red wine that tasted alright. Since it was pretty early, we first checked into our hotel for two nights and had breakfast there. Then, my uncle brought us to Luo Dai Ancient Town (洛带古镇, luo dai gu zhen), an old town converted to a large network of streets of local food and exhibition halls. Legend has it that during the Three Kingdoms Era, Liu Bei's son (Liu Shan a.k.a Liu Adou) dropped his belt in a well here, hence giving it it's name -- Luo Dai meaning dropped belt. Chengdu was the capital of Shu-Han kingdom during the Three Kingdoms.

More historically, Luo Dai is the largest Hakka ancient town in western China. Being migrants from other provinces, the Hakka people then had built a few guild halls to preserve their culture. Most of the buildings now are from Ming and Qing dynasties.


Flight food


Leaving the international airport


Xin Liang Hotel (新良大酒店), a good hotel


Pleasant rooms with soap, slippers, etc, all provided


Breakfast at the hotel right after the flight

luo dai gu zhen, 洛带古镇
Arrival at Luo Dai Ancient Town


Hop on one of these when tired I guess


An old building at the entrance, the streets are spick and span

luo dai gu zhen, 洛带古镇
The octogonal well were Liu Adou is supposed to have dropped his belt



It was Duan Wu Festival (端午节), also known as the dragon boat festival. Being a three day national holiday, the locals were out in full force enjoying themselves and renting costumes for photos


Almost every shop here is selling local street food


A stone grind for soya bean milk


Some fried food. Better to go for piping hot stuff


A four storey building lined with windows of the same pattern


An example of local street food with some that may be regarded by many as horrors


Beetles


Scorpions


More beetles that kind of look like roaches to me...


Grilled Pigeons


Crabs


One of palatable things for me, grilled lamb skewer


Fried fish, buy the smaller pieces as the larger ones have large bones that can't be chewed effectively


Suddenly, I caught a whiff of a bad odour as rotten as the dead rat in the drain. It was fermented beancurd, a delicacy


I couldn't get close enough to buy them. They eat it with a host of garnishing


Rickshaws for the tired. It is a long street


Being a Hakka town, a few stores sell Hakka food


A display piece at a ceramic art gallery


Ghost shacks for the brave


Hu Guang Guild Hall (湖广会馆)


A stage on the reverse side


A Hakka culture exhibition is inside, free entry. Hakka people migrated here in large numbers during the Ming and Qing dynasties


I forgot the meaning of those coloured scrolls



Surnames of various Hakka families


Old currency that were in use here


A well known Hakka ancestor of the migrants is worshipped here


Another guild hall


Close up of the dragon relief


Down the seemingly endless street


印度飞饼 (Yin Du Fei Bing) -- Indian flying biscuit. Something that most know as Roti Prata or Paratha. Curious, I went to take a closer look


Whoa, an Indian man is actually making them! But wait a minute, who uses a roller? I had thought that the authentic one involves tossing it in the air like pizza, i.e. "flying biscuit".


More endless old streets, some of the nicer food here are traditional candies


Another nice relief


Hammering some kind of "numb candy" (麻糖), real effort here to numb the candy


We were hungry so we decided to go for some Tu styled baked bread with meat for lunch


Turns out that they were really tasty. However like almost everything else, they are spiked with Sichuan pepper that enhances the flavour but leaves one unable to feel one's tongue after awhile.

The entire Luo Dai Ancient Town is huge. Unable to cover the entire location in slightly more than two hours, we decided to call it quits and head to our next destination. We will be visiting an archeological site of the former inhabitants of Shu (蜀) near the city centre. The site is from an era more than two thousand years ago, predating even the Qin and Han dynasties, before Han Chinese settlement of Sichuan and when elephants still roamed the land.

View the next related post here. Return to the trip index here.

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