India Day 7 - Purana Qila (Old Fort)

View the first post in this series here.
View the previous post in this series here.

23 Mar 08

Flagging an auto rickshaw for 20 Rs (USD 0.50) to Purana Qila (Old Fort) from Humayun's Tomb, I soon arrived at a very crowded road. Purana Qila was next to the New Delhi Zoo. Being Sunday, both the Old Fort and Zoo were full local people. The structures of Purana Qila was built by Sher Shah Suri, an Emperor of Turkic origin of a rival kingdom that defeated the Second Mughal Emperor Humayun. It is said that beneath the Old Fort lies an even older ancient city of Indraprastha. After Humayun finally defeated Sher Shah Suri, he lived here and fell to his death in one of the buildings here which he used as his library.

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Satellite view of Purana Qila compound. The label "Old Fort" actually marks the pavilion that Humayun used as his library.


The gateway to Purana Qila. Entry costs 100 Rs (USD 2.50).


The gate in a gate


The inner side of the walls of Purana Qila, within these walls house a local museum


A rough layout of the Fort

The Sher Mandal, a two storey octagon pavilion. It was thought to be Sher Shah Suri's pleasure resort. When Humayun took over, he turned it into his library. One evening while he was descending the steps from the second storey, he heard the call for prayer. Being a devout Muslim he turned to face Mecca, in doing so, he slipped and tumbled down the stairs to his death. Later his grieving widow built Humayun's Tomb.

Possibly another gateway into Purana Qila


There are many stray dogs in New Delhi and some puppies were playing here


Sher Shah Suri's Mosque. Notice how the design is the same as most other Mosques in Delhi. It is like a corridor inside with a center wall running horizontal from left to right. Muslims will pray facing the wall.


A well? Perhaps for ablution


There seems to be some rooms below the Mosque


What looks like a dried up pond. Probably for ablution as well.


The mosque is well decorated and is built from the familiar red sandstone and white marble


Entering


The underside of the dome


The wall that runs from left to right. The stars are quite misleading.


Decorations at the top corner of the inside


Back outside, two of these towers flank the back of the Mosque


What looks like some make-shift housing under the walls of the Old Fort. Probably for those that maintain the gardens here.


The walls form a long corridor around the compound


Close-up of the top of a gate now inaccessible


I went outside and took a picture of the walls of the Old Fort by the lake next to it. Notice some people are boating on the left.


Leaving to get an auto rickshaw back to my hotel. Some Indian transvestites it seems, disturbing a man.

I got back to my hotel to get my luggage, possibly over paying a little for my auto rickshaw fare. It was still rather early as it was 5:30pm and my flight was at 11:15pm. Thinking that it would be safer to take a proper cab to the airport, I asked the receptionist how much it would cost to book a cab. "400 Rupees (USD 10)", he said. That is a ridiculous price I thought. So with the help of some of the friendly and helpful (very rare sight) hotel staff, 2 porters and the security guard, I got an auto rickshaw to the airport for 150 Rs (USD 3.75).

Off I am to the International Airport.

After thinking about the speed he went on the highway, perhaps it was safer that I took a cab. Fortunately the highway is rather empty on Sunday. Upon reaching the International Airport, to my horror I am barred from entering the airport because I am too early for my flight. Looking around I saw many passengers and tourists sitting by the road. For a country that has money to invest in others, it was rather shocking that they do not even bother to invest in a better airport for their capital city. What was even more appalling is that they built a small air conditioned area with toilets and charge an entry fee -- that is even after you have paid the airport tax. One wonders why can't they include that fee in the airport tax and give visitors a better impression of Incredible !ndia.

Lots of people waiting by the road.


I am so disgusted with this


30 Rs to get inside to see flat plasma television with nothing playing on it.


Finally at about 7:45pm they allowed me to check in. Some interesting food I saw while waiting for my flight.


Kingfisher for USD 1 at duty free inside. Everyone is having one.


Dubious water dispensers. Perhaps that is why many were having Kingfisher.


My flight was delayed by half and hour. Hungry, I grabbed a hot dog.


Finally the flight crew were boarding.


Food on the flight, some kind of mutton stew. Sadly the Indian food I had on my way here was better than on the way back.

Thus ends my 7 day trip in Delhi and Agra to attend the DASFAA '08 Conference. While there are many beautiful sights, it is a pity that the government does nothing to improve its tourist industry and services before promoting itself as Incredible !ndia. Although handling touts and having to haggle is the norm in many developing countries, having hotels that do not honour their reservations (like Hotel Palace Heights for my first 3 nights) is the first for me. Personally I would not recommend going there to anyone till they improve themselves. After all, unlike Greece and Turkey, most of the monuments here are young and will definitely remain the same for the next 50 years at least. There are other tourist destinations in developing countries that offer a much better experience. Separately, one might want to get some immunisation before visiting India. I came down with suspected typhoid fever or cholera after I got back.

This is the last post in this series. View the first post and trip index here.